The citizens of Buenos Aires are called Porteños (Harbour people). In the morning they greet by saying Good Day (Buenos Dias). They usually work 10am–07pm and are probably the biggest dog lovers in the world. In order to keep their loved ones happy during work hours it’s common with dog nursery. There are “dog baby sitters” everywhere in the city, walking up to 15 dogs at the time. A slightly unfortunate side effect is the amount of poop that this generates. Garbage bags and rubbish is also found at the pavements, since it’s where it should be put to be picked up. Firstly by Cartoneros (“people of cardboard”) who rip through bins and bags for recyclable materials that can be sold and used. These poor people from the suburbs – sadly, still including many children, were put in the streets by the severe economic crisis in Argentina 2001.
Like the Japanese, Porteños line up neatly on the pavement when waiting for the bus. But unlike the Japanese, Porteños never know when the bus will arrive. When it finally does, it’s usually comes in pairs. The ride is really cheap, and so is a taxi ride. Some of the locals traveling by cab live in the chic area Palermo and dress in camel or brown and big expensive shades. The best restaurants in this area are found in “Palermo Hollywood”. It’s quite cheap to eat out. Porteños normally don’t use a lot of spice in the food. Not in their own and not in foreign food either. A “really spicy Thai dish” will not be spicy at all. Believe it. Try it. A big portion of Asado (grilled meat) with chimichurri (a mix of parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and chili) is probably the most traditional thing to eat. Porteños love sugar (especially Dulce the Leche) and avoid fibers. They eat big portions just a few times a day, and always a couple of hours “too late” according to Swedish standards. Lunch at 2.00 pm and dinner at about 10 pm. Feel free to order a famous 400g Argentinian steak 11.30 at night. Not strange at all! If you’re looking for a night out you’ll have to stay up until the morning anyway since the clubs usually don’t open until 2.00 am.
The Argentinian flag isn’t adorned with the sun for nothing, the sun is shining a lot over BA. The city is full with outdoor cafés and restaurants. Porteños meet for coffee and walks in the park. Make sure to take a Sunday stroll in the pretty Bosques de Palermo like a local and watch families and friends picnic, sip Mate and roller skate. Porteños are social and friendly people with a lot of Mañana attitude. For those interested in culture the city has a lot of museums, theaters, live music and art exhibitions to offer. Don’t miss a visit to Malba, the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires. The fashionable area Recoleta is where you’ll find the spectacular Cementerio de Recoleta, most famous for holding the remains of Evita Perón. Recoleta is also responsible for the city being referred to as “Paris of South America”. But make no mistake, even if the historical buildings of Recoleta may resemble the ones in Paris – Buenos Aires is nothing like Paris. It’s so much more. Beauty, ugliness, wealth, poverty, modernity, history, old, new, latin and european, south and north. There is certainly no other place like Buenos Aires, and a visit will stay with you forever.
Thailand, East to West USA, West
Ola & Maria are full time workers and part time adventurers, follow for photos around the world, over and under water. © sixweeks 2019